Kitab al-tibakhah (XV c)
Nov. 14th, 2020 01:20 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
crapulousПолный текст книги из предыдущего поста в английском переводе все того же Чарльза Перри. В сети в свободном доступе ее найти невозможно, так что пусть тут будет.
Itriyyah. It is made of dough, and it is thrown in the pot by handfuls. It is cooked like rishta, put with broth and boiled with it.
Buraniyyah. It is a food made from aubergine. Aubergine is cut and meat is boiled in a little water, then the aubergine is put with it until done. Chopped walnut and parsley are pat with it.
Tuffahiyyah. Meat is put into the pot and apples are peeled and cut and put with it. Then it is sweetened. [In the margin, in another hand: "The author mentions it in what he says about safarjaliyyah, because they are cooked the same way."]
Tharid. Meat is boiled and bread is moistened with the broth. Yoghurt, garlic and mint are put with it and the meat is put with it. Likewise there is a tharid without meat.
Judhabah. Rice is taken and milk, a little water and saffron are put with it and it is put in the roasting oven [sc. to cook under roasting meat and catch the juices.]
Jazariyyah. Meat is boiled with little water. Carrots, garlic, cloves and peeled onion are put with it, then crushed garlic is put with it. Some people put spinach with it also; some make it without spinach. Walnuts and parsley are put in.
Hissrimiyyah. It is cooked in several ways. One is to cook only with verjuice: Meat is boiled, chard and gourd are put with it, verjuice is put in and it is garnished with walnut and parsley. The second is to cook with yoghurt, and it is the same except that yoghurt is added. The third is to boil the meat, then fry the vegetables to be put with it. The yoghurt is dissolved it the broth and beaten with it. Then you put verjuice with it, then garnish with walnuts and parsley.
Hulwa. Its varieties are very many. Among them are the sweets (halwat) made of natif. You put dibs [fruit syrup], honey, sugar or rubb [thick fruit syrup] in the pot, then you put it on a gentle fire and stir until it takes consistency. Then you beat eggwhite and put it with it and stir until it thickens and become natif. After that, if you want almond candy (halawah lauziyyah) you put in roasted almonds and allaftahu, that is, you bind them. Jauziyyah, walnuts; fustuqiyyah, pistachios; bunduqiyyah, hazelnuts; qudamiyya, toasted chickpeas; simsimiyyah, toasted sesame; tahiniyyah, flour[tahin]. You beat in the natif until it thickens. For duhniyyah you put in flour toastet with fat. As for halawah ajamiyyah, toast flour with sesame oil until it becomes slack, and boil dibs or another sweet ingredient and put it on the fire until its scum rises, and skim it. Dissolve cornstarch in water and put it with it.
Khaukhiyyah. Meat and plums are boiled. Vegetables - chard, aubergine, carrots, gourd and so on - are fried. The plums are macerated in the meat broth and it is strained and pat with the vegetables. Then it is sweetened and garnished with walnuts and parsley.
Rummaniyyah. Meat is boiled in a little water and vegetables are put in. The pomegranate is squeezed, or pomegranate seeds are crushed and their juice is extracted [sc. in water], and it is put with that [stew], then it is sweetened and then garnished.
Rishta. Meat is boiled, then rishta is put with it. Some put onion with it. others chickpeas. Some put minced cilantro on top of it.
Rizz Mufalial. Meat is boiled, then enough rice is added that a spoon will stand up in it. Then it is boiled until the rice swells, then it is taken off [the fire], the water is strained off and fat is added to cover. Some people put in chickpeas, others put in dates.
Rizz Hulw. Rice is put in boiling water until it swells and nearly done. Then a sweet ingredient is put with it until it thickens, and it is sprinkled with ginger and taken off the fire.
Rizz bi-Rishta. It [sc. noodles] is fried in the oven and with rice [sc. as the rice boils].
Ribasiyyah. Meat and rhubarb are boiled and they are strained after macerating. It is put with the vegetables and yoghurt is dissolved in the broth of the meat and put with it.
Zirbaj. It is made with pomegranate seed, dibs, pears, jujube, apricots and almonds [sc. meat].
Summaqiyyah. Meat is boiled and vegetables are put with it such as celery, carrots, turnips, chickpeas nd chard. Sumac is steeped and macerated and strained and the sumac water is put with that [stew]. Some cook it with beef gut and some with stuffed lamb gut [sausages].
Safarjaliyyah. It is cooked like tuffahiyyah: You take the apples or quinces, peel them, boil meat in a little water and put them with it until it is nearly done. Then you put with it a sweet ingredient, poppyseed and fat.
Sakhatir. You take sheep gut, scald it, clean it and sew it into little sacks. You wash over rice and put it with fat meat, chickpeas, coriander, saffron and pepper, and you put it in them, sew them up and cook them. And when they are done, you cook tharid with yoghurt, mint and garlic for it, and put them with it.
Sha'iriyyah wa-Shorba. You make of them mufalfal and soup. As for mufalfal, it is like rice. Soup: You boil meat and put with it. Soup is to boil meat and put rice in it. Some add chickpeas, some add cilantro.
Shushbarak. You take minced meat and stuff it in dough rolled out like cut tutmaj. It is cooked in water until done. Then take it off the fire and put yoghurt, garlic and mint with it.
Shiwa. Meat is taken and greased with saffron and put in the oven and it is sealed up.
Salma. Dough is taken and twisted and cut in small pieces and struck like a coin with a finger, and it is cooked in water until done. Then yoghurt is put with it and meat is fried with onion for it and mint and garlic are put with it.
Tutmaj. Dough is rolled out and cut and cooked in water until done. Yoghurt, mint and garlic and clarified butter and fried meat are put with it.
'Asidah. Water is taken and boiled, and rice is put in until it swells. Then flour is sprinkled on it and it is stirred until done. Then it is taken off and fat and dibs are put with it. And if it is sprinkled with nuts, it is better.
'Asfuriyyah. Meat is boiled, then rice and gourd are put with it and it is colored with saffron.
'Ajuriyyah. Meat is boiled in a little water and unripe dates are put with it until done. Then it is garnished with walnut, parsley and garlic.
'Adas. The best way of cooking lentils is to crush them and then cook [them] and put with them chard and taro [qulqas, colocasia]. When it is done, sumac, fried onion, parsley, vinegar and oil are put with it.
Gharibah. Meat is boiled, then you take off most of its broth and put with the remainder vegetables such as onion, gourd and aubergine. You dissolve yoghurt in what you took off and you put it with it. Then you garnish with walnut and parsley.
Fuliyyah. Meat is boiled and fava beans are fried in fat, then you put them with the meat and broth. Then you put pounded thyme, coriander and garlic with it. Then you break an egg on it and sprinkle pepper and coriander seed on it. It is covered until it thickens and taken off.
Qar'iyyah. Meat is boiled, then gourd and onion are fried with pounded coriander. Then you put broth on it.
Qanbarisiyyah. You dissolve the qalbaris [sic; qanbaris, a dried sour milk product] in water and put it in a pot; then it is boiled. Meat and rice are put with it. Some people boil meat, then dissolve the qalbaris and put it with it, then add the rice.
Qulqasiyyah. It is cooked in two ways. The first is to boil meat and fry taro, then put the broth with it. It is colored with saffron. The second is to boil the meat and fry the taro and put it with it. And spinach is put with it after it is done.
Qamhiyyah. Wheat is taken and boiled in little water until it gives up its starch (yunshi). Then water is added and meat is put in it.
Kamah. Meat is boiled, then [kamah, truffles] are fried and broth is put with them and eggs are broken over it.
Kashk. Meat is boiled and vegetables such as chard, cabbage, turnip and chickpeas are put with it. Then you sprinkle on it kashk [a word of variable meaning; here probably parboiled grain dried and soaked in yoghurt] and put in cauliflower and aubergine. When it is done, you put with it qirt [a kind of leek known as 'table leek'], parsley, minced rue and pounded mint and garlic.
Kashkak. Meat is boiled, then wheat is added and it is covered. The difference between it and qamhiyyah is that there is much wheat in this one.
Labaniyyah. Meat is boiled, then leeks are put in and yoghurt is dissolved and rice is put with it. Some people put the yoghurt first, then the meat, then the rice.
Laimuniyyah. Meat is boiled and chard is put in. Then rice and yoghurt are put in, and when it is done lemon juice is put in. Some put in chickpeas. When it is done, minced qirt [leeks] and parsley are put with it.
Mulukhiyyah. Meat is boiled and mulukh [Corchorus olitorius, Jew's mallow] is minced nd put with it. You put pounded coriander in it with garlic and roasted onion. Some make it sour with verjuice and lemon.
Naranjiyyah. Meat is boiled and onion and taro are put with it. Then yoghurt is dissolved and put with it, and juice of bitter orange is put with it.
Nirjisiyyan. Meat is boiled and rice, carrot and spinach are put with it.
Hilyauniyyah. Meat and asparagus are boiled, then broth are put upon the other and egg is broken over it and it is sprinkled with pepper and dry coriander and put on the fire until done.
Harisah. Meat is boiled, then wheat is put on it until it gives up its starch (yunshi). Then the meat is plucked off the bones and pounded [and returned to the porridge]. Some add milk.
Itriyyah. It is made of dough, and it is thrown in the pot by handfuls. It is cooked like rishta, put with broth and boiled with it.
Buraniyyah. It is a food made from aubergine. Aubergine is cut and meat is boiled in a little water, then the aubergine is put with it until done. Chopped walnut and parsley are pat with it.
Tuffahiyyah. Meat is put into the pot and apples are peeled and cut and put with it. Then it is sweetened. [In the margin, in another hand: "The author mentions it in what he says about safarjaliyyah, because they are cooked the same way."]
Tharid. Meat is boiled and bread is moistened with the broth. Yoghurt, garlic and mint are put with it and the meat is put with it. Likewise there is a tharid without meat.
Judhabah. Rice is taken and milk, a little water and saffron are put with it and it is put in the roasting oven [sc. to cook under roasting meat and catch the juices.]
Jazariyyah. Meat is boiled with little water. Carrots, garlic, cloves and peeled onion are put with it, then crushed garlic is put with it. Some people put spinach with it also; some make it without spinach. Walnuts and parsley are put in.
Hissrimiyyah. It is cooked in several ways. One is to cook only with verjuice: Meat is boiled, chard and gourd are put with it, verjuice is put in and it is garnished with walnut and parsley. The second is to cook with yoghurt, and it is the same except that yoghurt is added. The third is to boil the meat, then fry the vegetables to be put with it. The yoghurt is dissolved it the broth and beaten with it. Then you put verjuice with it, then garnish with walnuts and parsley.
Hulwa. Its varieties are very many. Among them are the sweets (halwat) made of natif. You put dibs [fruit syrup], honey, sugar or rubb [thick fruit syrup] in the pot, then you put it on a gentle fire and stir until it takes consistency. Then you beat eggwhite and put it with it and stir until it thickens and become natif. After that, if you want almond candy (halawah lauziyyah) you put in roasted almonds and allaftahu, that is, you bind them. Jauziyyah, walnuts; fustuqiyyah, pistachios; bunduqiyyah, hazelnuts; qudamiyya, toasted chickpeas; simsimiyyah, toasted sesame; tahiniyyah, flour[tahin]. You beat in the natif until it thickens. For duhniyyah you put in flour toastet with fat. As for halawah ajamiyyah, toast flour with sesame oil until it becomes slack, and boil dibs or another sweet ingredient and put it on the fire until its scum rises, and skim it. Dissolve cornstarch in water and put it with it.
Khaukhiyyah. Meat and plums are boiled. Vegetables - chard, aubergine, carrots, gourd and so on - are fried. The plums are macerated in the meat broth and it is strained and pat with the vegetables. Then it is sweetened and garnished with walnuts and parsley.
Rummaniyyah. Meat is boiled in a little water and vegetables are put in. The pomegranate is squeezed, or pomegranate seeds are crushed and their juice is extracted [sc. in water], and it is put with that [stew], then it is sweetened and then garnished.
Rishta. Meat is boiled, then rishta is put with it. Some put onion with it. others chickpeas. Some put minced cilantro on top of it.
Rizz Mufalial. Meat is boiled, then enough rice is added that a spoon will stand up in it. Then it is boiled until the rice swells, then it is taken off [the fire], the water is strained off and fat is added to cover. Some people put in chickpeas, others put in dates.
Rizz Hulw. Rice is put in boiling water until it swells and nearly done. Then a sweet ingredient is put with it until it thickens, and it is sprinkled with ginger and taken off the fire.
Rizz bi-Rishta. It [sc. noodles] is fried in the oven and with rice [sc. as the rice boils].
Ribasiyyah. Meat and rhubarb are boiled and they are strained after macerating. It is put with the vegetables and yoghurt is dissolved in the broth of the meat and put with it.
Zirbaj. It is made with pomegranate seed, dibs, pears, jujube, apricots and almonds [sc. meat].
Summaqiyyah. Meat is boiled and vegetables are put with it such as celery, carrots, turnips, chickpeas nd chard. Sumac is steeped and macerated and strained and the sumac water is put with that [stew]. Some cook it with beef gut and some with stuffed lamb gut [sausages].
Safarjaliyyah. It is cooked like tuffahiyyah: You take the apples or quinces, peel them, boil meat in a little water and put them with it until it is nearly done. Then you put with it a sweet ingredient, poppyseed and fat.
Sakhatir. You take sheep gut, scald it, clean it and sew it into little sacks. You wash over rice and put it with fat meat, chickpeas, coriander, saffron and pepper, and you put it in them, sew them up and cook them. And when they are done, you cook tharid with yoghurt, mint and garlic for it, and put them with it.
Sha'iriyyah wa-Shorba. You make of them mufalfal and soup. As for mufalfal, it is like rice. Soup: You boil meat and put with it. Soup is to boil meat and put rice in it. Some add chickpeas, some add cilantro.
Shushbarak. You take minced meat and stuff it in dough rolled out like cut tutmaj. It is cooked in water until done. Then take it off the fire and put yoghurt, garlic and mint with it.
Shiwa. Meat is taken and greased with saffron and put in the oven and it is sealed up.
Salma. Dough is taken and twisted and cut in small pieces and struck like a coin with a finger, and it is cooked in water until done. Then yoghurt is put with it and meat is fried with onion for it and mint and garlic are put with it.
Tutmaj. Dough is rolled out and cut and cooked in water until done. Yoghurt, mint and garlic and clarified butter and fried meat are put with it.
'Asidah. Water is taken and boiled, and rice is put in until it swells. Then flour is sprinkled on it and it is stirred until done. Then it is taken off and fat and dibs are put with it. And if it is sprinkled with nuts, it is better.
'Asfuriyyah. Meat is boiled, then rice and gourd are put with it and it is colored with saffron.
'Ajuriyyah. Meat is boiled in a little water and unripe dates are put with it until done. Then it is garnished with walnut, parsley and garlic.
'Adas. The best way of cooking lentils is to crush them and then cook [them] and put with them chard and taro [qulqas, colocasia]. When it is done, sumac, fried onion, parsley, vinegar and oil are put with it.
Gharibah. Meat is boiled, then you take off most of its broth and put with the remainder vegetables such as onion, gourd and aubergine. You dissolve yoghurt in what you took off and you put it with it. Then you garnish with walnut and parsley.
Fuliyyah. Meat is boiled and fava beans are fried in fat, then you put them with the meat and broth. Then you put pounded thyme, coriander and garlic with it. Then you break an egg on it and sprinkle pepper and coriander seed on it. It is covered until it thickens and taken off.
Qar'iyyah. Meat is boiled, then gourd and onion are fried with pounded coriander. Then you put broth on it.
Qanbarisiyyah. You dissolve the qalbaris [sic; qanbaris, a dried sour milk product] in water and put it in a pot; then it is boiled. Meat and rice are put with it. Some people boil meat, then dissolve the qalbaris and put it with it, then add the rice.
Qulqasiyyah. It is cooked in two ways. The first is to boil meat and fry taro, then put the broth with it. It is colored with saffron. The second is to boil the meat and fry the taro and put it with it. And spinach is put with it after it is done.
Qamhiyyah. Wheat is taken and boiled in little water until it gives up its starch (yunshi). Then water is added and meat is put in it.
Kamah. Meat is boiled, then [kamah, truffles] are fried and broth is put with them and eggs are broken over it.
Kashk. Meat is boiled and vegetables such as chard, cabbage, turnip and chickpeas are put with it. Then you sprinkle on it kashk [a word of variable meaning; here probably parboiled grain dried and soaked in yoghurt] and put in cauliflower and aubergine. When it is done, you put with it qirt [a kind of leek known as 'table leek'], parsley, minced rue and pounded mint and garlic.
Kashkak. Meat is boiled, then wheat is added and it is covered. The difference between it and qamhiyyah is that there is much wheat in this one.
Labaniyyah. Meat is boiled, then leeks are put in and yoghurt is dissolved and rice is put with it. Some people put the yoghurt first, then the meat, then the rice.
Laimuniyyah. Meat is boiled and chard is put in. Then rice and yoghurt are put in, and when it is done lemon juice is put in. Some put in chickpeas. When it is done, minced qirt [leeks] and parsley are put with it.
Mulukhiyyah. Meat is boiled and mulukh [Corchorus olitorius, Jew's mallow] is minced nd put with it. You put pounded coriander in it with garlic and roasted onion. Some make it sour with verjuice and lemon.
Naranjiyyah. Meat is boiled and onion and taro are put with it. Then yoghurt is dissolved and put with it, and juice of bitter orange is put with it.
Nirjisiyyan. Meat is boiled and rice, carrot and spinach are put with it.
Hilyauniyyah. Meat and asparagus are boiled, then broth are put upon the other and egg is broken over it and it is sprinkled with pepper and dry coriander and put on the fire until done.
Harisah. Meat is boiled, then wheat is put on it until it gives up its starch (yunshi). Then the meat is plucked off the bones and pounded [and returned to the porridge]. Some add milk.
no subject
Date: 2020-11-14 09:33 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2020-11-15 12:13 am (UTC)Европейские кулинарные рецепты того же времени имеют схожую особенность.
Во многих из них часто используется глагол: "perboile" - в английских, parboullie - во французских. Который со временем исчезает, и в подобных блюдах из более поздних книг сменяется как раз на тушение и бланшировку.
Однако, обычно его переводят как "приварить" (to parboil), а иногда с точностью до наоборот - "тщательно выварить". Такой перевод может выглядеть более менее приемлемо, когда дело касается оленины, которую после этого обрабатывают жиром и готовят в вине, или зайца, c которым поступают так же, а затем насаживают на вертел; хотя последние лет триста так никто не делает. Предположим, что так делали до этого, почему нет?
Но когда он используется по отношению к луку или кресс-салату, в таком значении этот глагол выглядит как полная нелепица:
Take blaunched almaundes; grynde hem amd temper hem vp with gode broth. Take oynouns, a grete quantite; perboyle hem and frye hem and do þerto. Take smale bryddes; perboile hem and do þerto, and do þerto pellydore and salt, and a lytel grece.
Take blanched almonds; grind them and temper them with good broth. Take onions, a great quantity; parboil them and fry them and add thereto. Take small birds; parboil them and add thereto, add thereto [pellitory?, parietaria?] and salt, and a little grease.
Естественно, когда этим рецептом пользуются на практике, никто не жарит вареный лук (вот например).
Логично предположить, что и по отношению к мясу этот глагол никак не связан с варкой.
no subject
Date: 2020-11-15 01:06 am (UTC)С луком похоже, что имеется ввиду то, что я называю "утушить".
С другой стороны, я не очень представляю, как похожее можно проделать с "маленькими птицами" - но вот их я как раз-то никогда и не готовил.
no subject
Date: 2020-11-16 12:10 am (UTC)Мне кажется, что там лук может готовиться примерно как на карри - с небольшим количеством воды.
Под "маленькими птицами" понимаются всякие вьюрки и зяблики. Было бы интересно посмотреть на человека, который хоть раз пробовал их готовить.
no subject
Date: 2020-11-15 01:09 am (UTC)Choresh Qormeh Sabzi (Green herb stew)
INGREDIENTS
2 ½ to 3 pounds lean beef chuck
About 3/4 cup corn oil
2 large onions, sliced thin
1 medium-size leek
3 cups freshly chopped spinach leaves
2 cups freshly chopped parsley
¾ cup fresh dill, chopped
½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped (optional)
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon white pepper, or to taste
Lemon juice, optional and to taste
PREPARATION
Beef should be trimmed of fat and cut in 1-to-1 1/2-inch cubes.
Heat half of oil in 2 1/2-to-3-quart Dutch oven or other stew pot and add onions. Saute over very low heat until just slightly brown. Add beef and stir with onions. Add half salt and pepper. Cover and let simmer gently but steadily over low heat for about 2 hours. Stir at intervals to prevent scorching and check to be sure there is enough liquid, adding water only if necessary.
While beef is cooking, prepare greens. Wash leek thoroughly and chop white and green portions separately.
Heat remaining oil in deep skillet or wide saucepan and add white portion of leek. Saute gently over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, or until it begins to soften. Add green portion of leek and saute for another 5 minutes, or until it begins to soften. Leeks should not take on color. Add chopped spinach and saute for 5 minutes, then parsley and saute for 5 minutes. Add cilantro and saute for 5 minutes and then dill. Saute for 5 minutes. By this time mixture should be reduced to a near sauce but should still be bright green. Set aside.
When meat is thoroughly cooked, stir in green sauce and reheat together for about 5 minutes before serving. Adjust seasonings, adding lemon juice to taste.
If prepared in advance, green sauce can be added to cooked beef and they can be reheated together before serving. Serve stew spooned over steamed rice.
no subject
Date: 2020-11-16 12:34 am (UTC)Во французских книгах встречаются, судя по всему, его вариации, которые незатейливо называются "зеленое пюре" (porree verde). Это тоже тушеная зелень: кресс, порей, кудрявая капуста, петрушка, тушеные с миндальным молоком, уксусом и вержусом, а сверху посыпанная сыром. Как вариант, это блюдо подается с телятиной или бараниной.